In 2019, when my husband Max announced, out of the blue, that he was transitioning from 25+ years as a vegetarian to 100% plant-based eating, which meant giving up dairy, I said, “Good for you!” No way I planned to follow him there. Waking up to face the day without that splash of light cream in my morning Peet’s coffee seemed unfathomable. And pizza without mozzarella? Nope.
For a couple of months, Silk Non-Dairy Creamer lived in harmony beside Organic Valley Light Cream on the top shelf of our refrigerator. I continued to eat cheese pizza with friends, when I was out … and not with Max.
And then…
A few months into Max’s veganism, I read this beautiful, non-polemic essay, written by a new mother, about dairy. By the end of the essay, I’d vowed to give it up. No more light cream in my coffee. No more pizza with cheese.
When you think about giving up cheese, what comes to mind? (Other than, no way!) A thick, tangy smear of fresh goat cheese on a cracker? (My favorite was Humboldt Fog on a plain Carr’s). A chunk of sharp Vermont cheddar on a sliced baguette? Pizza! Pizza! Pizza!
What you probably don’t consider (I didn’t) is the dairy you use in cooking; sizzling onions in butter for a soup, melting parmesan into a risotto, stirring cream into a pasta sauce.
There are good reasons to cut back on dairy. Cheese, full-fat milk, and butter are high in saturated fat, which can raise your cholesterol. Dairy has a high climate footprint: Cows’ digestive systems create and emit enormous amounts of methane, a powerful greenhouse gas. Factory farms make life hell for dairy cows. Many people are lactose intolerant.
And yet. There’s Good News.
- Some cheese is easier on the environment than others. The rule of thumb: Soft cheese (e.g., goat; mozzarella; feta; brie; camembert) has a lower environmental footprint than the more environmentally-unfriendly hard cheeses (e.g., parmesan; gouda). And cows that live on small, local farms have better lives than those that live in factory farms.
- Ingredients that make thick, creamy dishes, and deliver the pleasure of melted cheese, are readily available, “natural,” and healthier than their dairy counterparts. When I use them, my non-vegan friends (i.e., most of my friends) have no idea they’re in the recipe (don’t worry, I always ask if anyone is allergic to nuts). Here’s the short list:
- Cashews (raw unsalted pieces, cheaper than the whole ones)
- White beans
- Coconut milk
- Nutritional yeast (“nature’s Cheeto dust“)
I now consider dairy a “crutch.” Sure, it’s easy to make a recipe taste delicious with butter, cheese and cream. (Think traditional lasagna). But all it takes is a couple of new hacks to create a luscious bowl of pasta or a creamy soup — dairy-free. Once you know a few secrets, it’s a cinch to toss your dairy crutch, and unleash a new world of luscious, more healthful, new flavors.
Read through these starter recipes, and you’ll get the idea. What to learn more? The vegan cookbook market has exploded – next time you are in a bookstore, browse through a couple. The most popular Good News Veg post this year was “7 Best Vegan-ish Cookbooks of 2023.“ I’ll be updating the list soon — there have been some great new additions.
Creamy Soups
Creamy Cauliflower Soup: All cruciferous veggies — cauliflower among them — are considered a superfood. Which means it has high levels of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. This soup contains a trifecta of creamy comfort: cashews (protein!), white beans (more protein!), and nutritional yeast (cheesy vitamin B!). Eat a small amount of the rich soup before a meal, or ladle it into a larger bowl and call it a meal.
Velvety Butternut Squash Soup : A squash, an onion, a can of coconut milk and a couple of spices, and you have autumn in a bowl. Close your eyes while you eat, visualize red leaves falling from maple trees, and hear them crunch underfoot as you walk in the woods and channel Henry David Thoreau.
Cream of Mushroom Soup: This soup couldn’t be easier, and, as its creator describes it, “hugs you with warmth and deliciousness.” The key to its richness is already in your pantry: flour. (Can substitute gluten-free).
Luscious Risotto & Pasta
Pumpkin Risotto: Pureed (canned!) pumpkin and arborio rice add enough creaminess to this show-stopping dish that no one will ask, where’s the cheese? Taking an extra few minutes to toss pumpkins seeds in maple syrup, chili powder, and olive oil, adds a touch of elegance, heat, and crunch.
Fettuccini Alfredo: Non-dairy Alfredo sauce? No way! That’s what I thought before I read this recipe, and tested it. OMG. In addition to this sauce being downright delicious, it’s versatile as well. Don’t like cashews? Substitute almonds. Prefer oat milk over almond milk? That works, too. Tweak to your taste, sit back, and listen for your plummeting cholesterol whispering, “thank you.”
Creamy Garlic Pasta with Roasted Tomatoes: I go into “tomato mourning” at the end of every summer, when fresh tomatoes that actually taste like tomatoes are tough to come by. The solution: Roasted cherry tomatoes. Any pasta recipe that calls for a sheet-pan full of roasted tomatoes and 8 large cloves of garlic is always welcome at my table!
Cheesy Casseroles
Cauliflower Mac & Cheese: No pasta in a mac & cheese? You betcha! Cauliflower florets mimic those cute mac & cheese elbow noodles. And your food processor does all the work to create a homemade cheesy sauce from softened white and sweet potatoes, soaked cashews, nutritional yeast, lemon juice, and everyday spices like garlic and onion powder. Top with Panko to add a satisfying crunch. Decadent, delicious, and low cal? This mac & cheese has it all.
Ricotta Stuffed Shells: One of the rules of entertaining is, “never cook a recipe for the first time for guests.” Last week, I auditioned this Thanksgiving recipe. There’s no beating around the bush: Like a good lasagna, this one takes time. But trust me, it’s worth it. Fat pasta shells stuffed with homemade non-dairy ricotta are mixed with pumpkin puree and warming spices, then drizzled with garlic Bechamel. Serve this, and no one will want the damn dry turkey.
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